| La Isla del ReyThe Playa del Rey (Beach of the King) on the island of the same name, on  the Riviera Nayarit, in front of San Blas, is a wonderful place “where the green  palm trees are allowed to go where the wind decides, while the arrival of the waves  is accompanied by serenity, a relief for those who arrive in this paradise”. But  the king's real secret is located 300 meters away, it is a monument that nature  has created over time, a white rock called Haramara, sculpted by salt water and  which the Huichols of the Sierra Nayarita consider sacred.
 Haramara, according to the  Wixarika  legend, was the first solid object that was born on earth, when it was still  very young and there was nothing but boiling water in the world. For this  reason, it is believed that the origin of life is found in the rock. The  Huichols say that the gods left the white stone to shape the planet, and that inside  it rests the goddess Haramara, who is beaten by the sea, to first become a cloud,  and then rain; which causes life to grow in every corner of the earth; all  thanks to the mother, the sea; from where the first beings were born. This is  the sacred place of Tatei Haramara, Mother of the Sea. The mother of humanity.¹
 
                    
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                        The White Rock, from where the first gods emerged on earth and traveled eastward to Wirikuta. |  Tatei Haramara, sacred site. Throughout the year there are different pilgrimages to  worship Tatei Haramara, one of the most important deities of the Wixarika  culture and every May 20 baptism rituals are organized. This magical place is  one of the five cardinal points of the Wixarika sacred space, visited in ritual  pilgrimages. Near the beach there is a small shrine, a Xiriki, where offerings  are left to Kauyumari, the blue deer god who guides the Huichol  people on their pilgrimage from here to Wirikuta, to gain knowledge and assume  their role as guardians of the planet.
 According to their traditions, the Huichol pilgrims visit  the playa del Rey to deposit offerings such as jícaras (gourd bowls), lit  candles, arrows and other elements that little by little are taken by the sea  by way of gratitude.
 
 
                    
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                        Offerings for Tatei Haramara at the Playa del Rey in San Blas |  Pacta sunt servanda: agreements are to be keptIn 2008, in Pueblo Nuevo, Durango, the Hauxa  Manaká pact was signed by the president of Mexico, Felipe  Calderón Hinojosa and the governors of the states of Jalisco, Nayarit, Durango  and San Luis Potosí; all of them wearing colorful Wixárika attire. The  agreement was signed in the midst of strong international pressure, in which  the United Nations Organization asked the government to respect the territories  and the collective decisions of the Huichol people. In the Hauxa Manaká pact,  the president of the republic undertook to take care of and guarantee the  historical continuity of the sacred places of the Wixárika people.
 The federal government soon  "offered its support" to the Wixárika Union of Ceremonial Centers  (UWCC), which had received the mandate of the Wixaritari communities to protect  the sacred sites. The National Commission for the Development of Indigenous  Peoples (CDI: Comisión  Nacional para el Desarrollo de los Pueblos Indígenas) thereupon urged the UWCC to  seek a “concession" on the grounds of Isla del Rey for the construction of  a Xiriki where the offerings could be deposited, and the protection of this  place reinforced. What the government did not say is that the concession had to  be paid by the communities or otherwise could be canceled and sold. What had  been an ancestral right had become a commercial lease. The alleged concession  to the UWCC was no more than a part of the division of the whole land into  concessions or pieces of land that can be privatized by tourist capital. The  federal government, through the CDI, with its supposed help had become a  fundamental operator for the privatization and dispossession of the sacred  Tatei Haramara, Our Mother of the Sea. Finally, the government put the island  on sale, leaving only a small area where the Wixárika people can make offerings  to their gods. The agreements with indigenous peoples did not need to be maintained.² 
                    
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                        Mexican president Felipe Calderon in traditional Huichol attire, 2008.  |  Open  war on the Huichol nation The history of the process of privatization of the sacred site of Haramara  mirrors the government’s policies towards the other Huichol sacred sites -the  pillars that sustain the Huichol cosmos, our world; a strategy of constant  betrayal, presented as assistance but designed to end the Huichol claims to  their ceremonial places and with it its chances of survival. Today in 2018, the  offerings to Tatei Haramara no longer arrive, everything stays at sea. For  several years they have been prevented from entering Isla del Rey, even by  boat. The Huichols are convinced they want to take away their millennial center  of worship.
 Unable to find redress at the state level, a Wixarika  delegation traveled to Mexico City to hand a letter to president Enrique Peña  Nieto, in which they appeal for his intervention for the protection of their  sacred site. There came no answer from the president.³
 
 
                    
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                          Braulio Muñoz  Hernandez, president of the Huichol Council Tatei Haramara of Nayarit(center) defending the Wixárika rights  in a press conference.
 |  On August 9, 2018, the International Day of the  Indigenous Peoples, the Huichols of Nayarit visited their temple on the beach  of Isla del Rey in San Blas, Nayarit, to thank their gods in the sacred place  of Tatei Haramara, Mother of the Sea. The temple had been  burned down, by the Department of Public Safety and on express orders of the local mayor, as the stunned Huichols  learned from the Press ⁴. When the  Huichols organized a protest meeting with the mayor, she refused to receive  them.However, a few days later it was reported that the president of the Wixárika  Union of the Ceremonial Centers, Francisco Gonzalez de la Cruz, disclaimed any responsibility for the fire on the part of the mayor of San Blas, Candy Yescas. He explained that the current city administration of San Blas had  facilitated transport to help the Huichols  reach the island. Ms Yescas herself stated that she was committed to help the indigenous peoples conserve their sites in good conditions ⁵.
   ¹ See "Los Huicholes  creen que la vida inicio en esta Piedra Blanca", por Lucy Nuño Parra.²                    See "Abierta  traición, ahora en Haramara",  por Tunuary y Christian Chavez
 ³ Letter  of support for the Wixárika demand for the return of their sacred land.
 ⁴ Alcaldesa  del PRI manda quemar centro ceremonial Wixárika en Nayarit.
 ⁵ Tras incendio se vigilará Tatei Haramara, acuerdo entre Unión Wixárika y Alcaldesa de San mBlas
 
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